||Lubin - Black Jade Eau de Parfum - 100 ml |
Top: Galbanum, Bergamot, Cardamom.
Middle: Rose, Jasmine, Incense, Cinnamon.
Base: Indian Sandalwood, Patchouli,
Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Amber.
In 1784, 10-year-old Pierre François Lubin
became the apprentice of Tombarelli, a master
perfumer of Grasse, in the south of France.
Some years later, he came to Paris to complete
his apprenticeship in the prestigious workshop
of Fargeon, perfumer to the Royal Court. His
ambition was subsequently to join the corporation
of perfumers founded in the 15th century.
The latter enjoyed growing prestige at the time, for
since the reign of Louis XIV, hygiene had been
making great progress at Versailles. The use of
soaps, perfumes and cosmetics gradually became
entrenched. The queen’s perfumer Fargeon was
therefore a familiar face at the Royal Palace
of Versailles, where he regularly brought his
preparations to Queen Marie Antoinette.
The young apprentice Lubin carefully copied his master’s
formula: he would remember them when he set
up his own shop in rue Sainte Anne a few years
later in 1798, and launched the famous “eau de
toilette” that established his reputation.
The young Lubin was also interested
in a mysterious perfume that the queen had
ordered from Jean Louis Fargeon during
the creation of the Trianon gardens, her
private domain. The roses in the recipe of
course evoked the flower garden, and are
combined with jasmine from Grasse, but
the use of spices and noble wood imported
from distant lands, those that inspired the
motifs of the wall decorations at Versailles,
gave it more exotic tones. Precious patchouli
and sandalwood, vanilla and cinnamon,
coriander and cardamom, frankincense and
galbanum were brought from India and
French islands beyond the seas. With these
ingredients, the initially cool floral fragrance
became mellow and warm on the queen’s
skin. It leaves a discreet trace with notes of
amber, elegant and sensual. The queen took
it everywhere in a small flask of black jade
that protected it from daylight.
In the house of Lubin, the once lost but
now resuscitated fragrance for a long time
bore the name of “jardin secret”, until the
1930s, without any explicit reference ever
being made to its origin. Lubin has now
restored its name of the time, “black jade”,
the one brought to us by a close friend to
whom the queen gave the black flask with
its nostalgic whiffs when they parted for the
last time. It held the “secret garden” of a
queen, the memory of her happy days, of
spring evenings in the intimacy of the Petit
Trianon, at Versailles, but far from the
pomp of the court.
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